173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

Replaced engine on 30+ year old Snapper Hi-Vac with this engine. Doesn't mount perfectly straight because of the Hi-Vac's plastic discharge chute's close proximity to engine muffler. I simply rotated the engine a little and drilled some holes in the deck accordingly. I also could not find the correct blade adapter because the original keyway is smaller than what the engine came with, but reused the original by drilling and tapping for two set screws in the sides of the adapter opposite each other to secure to shaft. Also used Loctite on blade adapter. I don't use the throttle control, just run it on high speed. This engine starts on first pull every time I used it after I initially put it into service. The two year replacement warranty for any reason is certainly worth the $19.00. I have no problem buying more of these engines as the need comes up. Good luck!

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

The Predator vertical shaft engine will fit on 21" Snapper Hi-Vacs with Self Propelled. It is a near perfect fit and choice for one of the longest running production models of mowers ever produced and still produced. Growing up I ran commercial lawn care business and did many engine rebuilds and replacements for my business and for another large commercial shop, this Predator engine is smartest and best engine replacement for the money on a non-throw away mower. I bought a used residential Series 19 in very good condition with a seized motor. The Series 20 is the current model and same as the 19 – engine replacement should be applicable to all Hi-Vac series from my experience with these machines since the early 80's before and after blade brakes. By adding this engine and steel wheels you will essentially have a commercial machine that would only be rivaled by new top of the line commercial models. If I were back in the commercial lawn care business or starting one up, I would not hesitate to use these engines and set up for my push/trim mower. Here is how to do it and my review:
• If your current engine has a 1" shaft you need to change the blade Adapter and engine pulley to 7/8". I used OEM part numbers 1-2927 and 2-1764 (or aftermarket)respectively. Only one problem is that the keyway on this engine has a 3/16" keyway, the easiest cheapest solution is to carefully grind/file half the key stock in a vise to fit the adapter and pulley. Not sure if the OEM or the aftermarket companies makes these parts with a 3/16" keyway. Don't worry about the 1" step-up on the Crankshaft, push the drive pulley against the 1" step-up and tighten the set screw and the belt will align perfectly. The blade and adapter align to the perfect height to the bottom of deck about ¼" or so of clearance to the rolled lip. On GXV models you will need to change the 1" engine Pulley to 7/8" and the existing 7/8" blade adapter can be reused, the 7/8" stepped crankshaft is shorter on the GXV only to adapt for the blade.
• There is no deflector on the GCV type muffler which will melt the bagging chute without the deflector, suggest using horizontal shaft muffler deflector B&S 393760, Stens 110-410, or Honda 18331-883-810. Drill 2 or 3 - 1/8" holes in the muffler guard and attach the deflector facing forward with pop rivets or sheet metal screws. GXV mufflers don't have this issue since they exhaust through the front. Not sure if a GXV muffler would fit this engine, but it would not be cost effective to buy this expensive part since the deflector inexpensive.
• Only one hole is tapped on crankcase mount to 3/8" UNF, I tapped the other two to 3/8" UNC with no problem and reused the bolts from the old engine, you can use 5/16" bolts with a nut as recommended in the manual. Tapping makes a cleaner install and no need for a backup wrench.
• If you have a older mower or other application, the blade brake/kill switch can be disabled, remove the 3 nuts on the pull rope cover, unplug the kill wire on the coil and add your own kill switch, it would better/more universal if the switch was built into the throttle linkage like the old mowers prior to blade brakes. The brake spring can be removed (doesn't have to be) and tie the mechanism open with wire or pull the flywheel and remove the whole mechanism. This is applicable to early 80's model mowers and back before the government mandate of adding blade brakes. And yes old high quality mowers like Snapper, Toro, and others are worth fixing which you may get another 20-30 years of service out of it.
• The other minor issue since I went from a B&S OHV to the Predator the throttle cable needs to be longer. I made one with a long bicycle brake cable, pull the inner cable out, route, cut to length, replace cable with stiff wire, and make small Z bends on both ends or buy the OEM cable for the GXV. The Carburetor and Exhaust on the Predator is opposite to B&S, the configuration is the same if you are replacing a GXV.
Most of the cheap consumer/residential aluminum bore engines without bearings wear out quickly and require adding oil as the aluminum block wears out from the steel rings . The top of the line commercial mower models equipped with engines such as the GXV comes with a cast iron bore with a ball bearing supported crankshaft that are made the right way for durability and longevity similar to this engine that will almost never wear out. So far highly impressed, starts every time on the first pull, very fast walking/jogging speed, high RPMs, and very powerful. The only accessories besides the sparkplug wrench, HF should consider adding or selling separately is a muffler deflector, a heavy gauge pre-bent wire to pin/disable the blade brake for older mowers and other applications, universal key stock, create 7/8" X 1" adapter bushings with keyways . On the engine itself, perhaps cut a smaller keyway on the crankshaft opposite the large keyway and adding a stop/kill switch in the throttle mechanism. Harbor Freight did a great job packaging a fairly universal vertical shaft engine. In the HF stores they should also provide a small parts rack with consumable items such as air filters, spark plugs, and other consumable parts. However, if some of my suggestions are included or sold at HF this would save people time and money researching the parts to do an engine replacement. Hope this helps the Snapper following.

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

I replaced the motor to my old mower. I had to go buy new bolts but everything else worked ok. It starts up with one or two pulls. It would be nice if it had a oil drain plug at the bottom of the motor.

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

I used this engine for my rc mower build last season, so far it's torn through knee high grass and worked at steep angles without a single hiccup. I had to tap some of the bolt holes to make it mount for my application, other than that I've made no mods. Observe proper break in, and keep oil at proper level, this motor is well worth the price!

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

Dropped right in. Started right up. Runs real strong. Honda 160 in the corner of the shed!

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

Used to replace a motor on a log splitter. Works Great!!! Had to do a few minor bolt adjustments, but other than that, had it up and going in no time. Has a little vibration in it but nothing major, not really any worse than the original motor. And it was a great price!!!

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

I purchased this engine to replace a 15 year old briggs & Stratton engine on my log splitter. Had it bolted up in less than 30 minutes and started on 2nd pull of the rope. I've used it to cut nearly 9 cords of wood without a single issue. Be sure and follow the break in instructions and change the oil as recomended.

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

I got this engine to replace my original Craf@#%$N engine on my mower. I had to purchase some bolts and do some modifying on the mower body but it wasnt much work and for the price it was worth it. Engine works great! Keep the oil lever proper. The red filter in the gas tank filler whole is not good. Remove it. It can break apart and small pieces can get stuck in the carb and cause a leak. I had to remove the carb and fix it because of this. Other than that, this engine runs strong. Powerful.

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

After adding oil, disconnecting plug wire to prevent it from starting, giving it several slow and easy pulls to help distribute oil. I re-connected the plug wire, one firm pull and it fired right up FIRST PULL!! I kept the RPM's down first 90 minutes to aid in breaking it in and it ran perfectly. Between the strong new engine and sharpened blade my 1970's Sensation mower rolled through tall grass like a tank.

I had to enlarge by drilling one hole to get motor to fit on my 30+ year old Sensation Mower deck. The Sensation's underside crankshaft protector and rock guard flywheel fit perfectly.

Although I'm satisfied with my purchase now comes the bad. First of all there is no drain plug to change oil. Have to remove oil dip stick and turn mower upside down to drain/change oil.

The engine is set up to work with a throttle cable and handle brake. My old Sensation has neither the throttle cable or the handle mounted brake and engine shut-off. Using bailing wire I disabled the engine brake. Using a junk yard choke cable I easily made a throttle cable. The throttle can be easily controlled with a piece of bailing wire to maintain steady RPM's. I shut the engine off by lowering RPM's as low as possible. Sometimes it will shut down on it's own slowing RPM's as low as possible. If it continues to run at very slow speed, a couple of pumps on priming rubber will flood the engine and shut itself off.

I plan and you should also to install a kill switch or button by grounding out or shorting the circuit to one of the magneto wires. If you have an 80's or later made mower. The throttle linkage and engine brake/shut off will hook up without any difficulty. Obviously the throttle linkage may need some adjustment.

The good is if you have an older mower without all the govt mandated bells and whistles and the especially irritating extra long handles. Consider replacing the engine. The newer mowers are much harder to maneuver with their ridiculously long handles.

M<y last replacement mower engine came from a well known American brand name. Why pay the extra money for the brand name for an engine that likely came off the assembly line at the same factory.

Comments about PREDATOR 173 cc OHV Vertical Shaft Gas Engine - Certified for California:

This engine accepted all the parts from my 12 year old John Deere. It installed very easy and 3 of the 4 holes on the deck lined up very easily.
After a day of fighting with the parts to get them off of the old dead motor and getting them installed on the new one, I put in the oil, Gas, primed it, and pulled and pulled and pulled and pulled and nothing. I NEVER got this motor started. Checked and double checked every connection and the spark plug. It didnt even putter sputter or give an oompf..