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ACCESSORIES YOU NEED
Inline Desiccant Dryer/Filter
1/2" Standard Air Filter
1/2" Air Line Filter/ Regulator with Gauge
(based on 37 reviews)
of respondents would recommend this to a friend.
Most Liked Positive Review
Cleaner cheap air...
My first impressions of this air control unit were fairly negative as the default configuration of this unit did not immediately suit my needs, and of course, everything was glued in place.Read complete review
My first impressions of this air control unit were fairly negative as the default configuration of this unit did not immediately suit my needs, and of course, everything was glued in place.As a result, I feel I may have kicked this little guy when he was already down from overwhealmingly negative reviews.After mildly altering it's original configuration and using it for over a week, I feel compelled to return and remark on my positive findings.Let me begin by saying that I have yet to actually open the canister. Currently, this cannister is the only regulated output for my new compressor. While I did break free all the other glued connections, I can't break the seal on the O'rings for the cannister until I have confirmation on the exact size of the O'rings. Since this thing is so glued together, I am under no illusion that these O'rings will be salvagable or reusable in any way. Once I have replacement O'rings of the correct size, I will break those two remaining seals.Continuing with the negative aspects of the assembly, I must note that the 3/8" nipple that goes from the filter cap to the elbow is made of a peculiar material and does not have an outer diameter sufficient to cut 3/8 NPT threads. Had it not been glued in both places as heavily as it was, it most certainly would have leaked air that I don't believe any amount of thread tape would help to seal. I discarded the defective nipple and replaced it with a 3/8"NPT nipple.As I stated in my previous, mostly negative review, the way this thing came, out of the box, did not quite suit my application. I rotated the mounting of the valve, but not as I'd originally planned. With the handle protruding outward in it's original configuration I caught my jacket on it twice. My two snags weren't enough to damage the handle, it's threads, or the valve, but were enough to remind me I needed to change how this thing was setup. My final solution was to thread the valve directly on to the nipple, bypassing the elbow.With the handle of the valve facing down, I then connected a 1/4" elbow facing downward in the front facing 1/4" port. I then connected the gauge to the 1/4" elbow. I removed the plug that was glued in to the left most port of it's original configuration, and connected my 6 port manifold with a 1/4" nipple to that port, which is now the right most port. I installed my 1/4" adapted 3/8" ball valve to another 1/4" elbow at the end of my manifold facing down. Attached to that is a male disconnect which allows me to either rapidly drain the regulated side of my compressor, or to attach my old 21 gallon compressor for extra volume while it's turned off, or for extra CFM if needed when it's turned on. One of the main reasons I wanted a diaphram type regulator was so I could run either compressor from the same manifold, while ensuring that I wasn't trying to fill my 60 gallon tank from my small 21 gallon 6 CFM compressor. The regulator on my 21 gallon compressor will pass air in reverse and it's tank is only rated to 145 PSI. My new compressor's working pressure is 125 to 155 PSI, so it could damage my other tank if I were to connect it to the unregulated side of the new compressor.The valve in this new HF regulator assembly does not pass air from the regulated side, so as I currently have everything connected I can run either compressor and use either compressor's air from my combined manifold. If I'm running the larger compressor, it will fill the 21 gallon tank giving me more volume, which helps my regulated pressure to stay constant, even while using tools that drain air quickly. If I were to require more than the 11.5 CFM @ 90 PSI that is provided by my 60 gallon compressor, the small compressor would kick on, effectively offering me 17.5 CFM @90 PSI at the combined manifold.For my current setup, this unit is ideal. It acts and does exactly what I want for it to do. While I was shopping on-line, I found a few other similar units that would be effectively the same, but they ranged in price from $130.00 to $160.00. Needless to say, I'm more than happy with this purchase, in spite of it's initial shortcomings.Throw away the non 3/8" nipple, part "1B" in the manual and pick up a good one from your local hardware store. While you're there, pick up a pair of 3/8" to 1/4" brass adapters and some 1" long 1/4"NPT nipples to fit HF's 3/8" nickel plated ball valve (sold separately).Currently, I'm 90% comfortable with the setup I've got. Once I have replacement O'rings for the canister, I'll be 100% happy with what I've got.Other little things I've noticed about the valve itself are, as somebody mentioned previously, if the incoming pressure is less than the pressure set on the regulator, it will not pass air. This is the nature of this type of valve, and would occur if you were to buy the same type of valve from a different manufacturer. It will pass air at pressures below it's setting, but not with a load. In other words you could let air out of a valve on the regulated side with your compressor turned off, but you're not going to drive your 1/2" impact effectively until the tank pressure meets your regulated pressure.In my case this is not a problem because my compressors working pressure is 125 to 155 PSI and my regulator is set to 110PSI.I also noted that this regulator is slow to reach it's regulated pressure with bursts exhausted by high air volume consuming tools. In other words, there's a momentary drop when I fire up my high volume grinders. In my case, this drop is insignificant thanks to the other compressors added tank volume on my regulated side. An easy fix for this, if it presents a problem, would be to connect a small air tank to the regulated side to make up for the initial drop in air volume.I'm sorry I dragged out this review. I just wanted to set the record straight from my previous negative review. I should have used it for a longer period before writing about it. Since I have used it more, I've grown to like it even more.BTW, my HF Industrial Air Filter Regulator still doesn't leak :)
Most Liked Negative Review
New revisions don't leak at all!
Atypical of my reviews, while I would certainly recommend this to a friend as a pressure regulator and a good primary air filter assembly, most especially because of it's low price, I gave this...Read complete review
Atypical of my reviews, while I would certainly recommend this to a friend as a pressure regulator and a good primary air filter assembly, most especially because of it's low price, I gave this item low marks because the unit I picked up had two major strikes against it right out of the box.I see quite a few negative remarks from customers who encountered severe leak issues with these regulators/filters. Well, your voices have definitely not gone unheard. Without applying brute force or heat, the new assemblies won't leak at all.The manufacturer jumped in with both feet and made certain that these filter/regulator assemblies will never leak again. How did they do this you ask? Did they tighten tolerances with manufacturing? No. Did they switch to a different supplier for seals and O'rings? No. Did they alter the materials in any way shape or form? No.They solved the leak issue by gluing the entire thing together. The new units come fully assembled except for the adjustment handle. All threads, O'rings, and seals are so completely caked in glue that these units can't even be opened to inspect or replace the filter elements without either destroying the housing, nipples, or fittings by use of brute force, or by using sufficient heat as to melt the O'rings.Mine is plumbed in and mounted, as it was purchased, except for the removal of the 1/4" ball valve, which required significant force and some thread chasing ro remove enough glue so I could replace it with my multi outlet manifold. Those far East manufactured valves aren't good for a whole lot, so I never intended to use it. I have a 1/2" ball valve going in to it, and an adapted 1/4" to 3/8" ball valve with a male quick disconnect coupler for either connecting my smaller compressor to the manifold, or for quick air drainage.I'm only calling them out on the 1/4" ball valve, not because they included it, which they certainly could have done without, but because it was glued in to my regulator housing costing me needless additional labor.I'm guessing they thought it necessary to include some type of valve there because otherwise there would be no way to bleed down the output side of the regulator. I've not seen too many 1/4" ball valves of sufficient quality for use in an industrial, or most any other environment. A double female ended 3/8" brass ball valve, with 2 1/4" to 3/8" brass sleeve type adapters will fit virtually the same footprint if space is an issue, will seal better and the handle is less likely to fall apart or strip itself out just by opening or closing the valve.All right, back to my gripes about this device...As I said, mine came fully assembled and glued in such a way that disassembly is not possible without significantly damaging the unit. Adding insult to injury, the assembly was done haphazardly, nothing is exactly square or true, so the regulator, and anything attached appear cockeyed, as if the owner of my compressor just doesn't care. Further, I would have, given the option, turned the elbow connecting the regulator body up 90 degrees, moved my gauge to the new south position and connected my manifold to the north. That would bring the regulated / non-regulated gauges and quick disconnect couplers more in line with what works best for me.Other than having my options ripped out from under me with respect for how I'd like to set my tools up and sloppy workmanship, I really can't complain.The regulator works absolutely perfectly. It does a good job filtering my air for general use. It also seems to be made of reasonably heavy duty materials.For 1/3rd the price of a name brand regulator of this type, I get a nice primary filter as well. It's just too bad I'll NEVER be able to clean or replace the filter element as the manual states I can ...For the price, yes, it's ok overall. Hey, it doesn't leak! :)
Reviewed by 37 customers
Displaying reviews 1-10
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(7 of 7 customers found this review helpful)
from Warren, MI
Comments about Central Pneumatic Industrial Air Filter Regulator:
Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
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(2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)
from Downey, CA
Works great within what it was made for. I have had no problems. I did replace all the NPT fittings as there threads do not seal easily. This is not a $200.00 unit and I do not expect it to work like one. used properly it is a lot BETTER than some $75.00 and $100.00 units I have had.
(0 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
Solution for air leak
from Forest Park, GA
Ive had this product for a good while now, I too had the seal go out and had air leak constantly, what I did was, I did away with the regulator and guage that came with it and used one of my own purchased from hardware/ paint supply store. works like a charm ever since.
(1 of 3 customers found this review helpful)
"Don't judge a book by its cover"
Excellent quality for the price.
(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)
Really good results
Been using this unit for about 3 months and havent had the first bit of trouble out of it. I live in a humid climate and it hasnt let me down cleaning the moisture yet when using it for painting. I havent experienced the air leaks others had although my incoming air pressure is never more than 150 that gets regulated. I will be buying another one of these for my father-in-law soon.
(2 of 3 customers found this review helpful)
It's Not a moisture trap folks!
from Riverside, California
I have two of these filters one I bought several years ago, and the other was purchased just a few months ago. I find that this item is just as good as one can get, for an Air regulator and Air line Filter. Bottom line is, if you are having a lot of moisture problems? Then I would suggest you install a "Refrigerated Air Dryer", as this item is not going to help much in that area. To get just about the perfect Air for your Air Tools and Painting, always have an Automatic "Water Trap" at the Compressors Air tank. Then install the Regulator/Dryer unit and an oilier just for your Air tools not for painting. Now,last but by no means never least, The "Refrigerated Air Dryer" unit. Harbor Freight also sells above items. However, I would not rec-amend their Automatic tank Trap/blow-down. Unless they have a better one now? They do have a real nice "Refrigerated Air Dryer" I hope this will help everyone's moisture problems? Have a Good one, good people! Jerry -A Chief Engineer For The State of California
I am gonna buy another
from WICHITA, KS
I have put one after the compressor and before it enters the building. All it really needs is a good cotton batting filter in the bottom to help catch more of the mosture, an automatic drain and a few better seals. I've also put smaller ones at the junctions for my air lines where they T off. I really have had good luck with this after I stopped the small air leaks. I use this with an 80 gallon air tank, a 100 gallon holding tank, and a 5 horse 4 cylinder compressor, in other words, FULL ON INDUSTRIAL.
Reliable Once Assemble with No Air Leaks
I have one install on my 80 gallon compressor and it has worked fine for the last 6 years. The regulator still work fine after all this time. Can be finicky to setup with no air leaks, but hopefully you only need to do it once. Make sure you have Teflon thread seal tape and maybe some silicone sealant to help seal it up as you assemble it. This is not an air dryer but it will trap some water. I use this filter with a inline desiccant dryer/filter for my occasional spraying painting projects.
Works Great for Me
from Southwest Missouri
See all my reviews
I have two of these in my shop. One connected for general purpose air line, and one I keep dedicated only for painting.Biggest thing to remember is you are buying HF quality, that is why you get the good prices. Treat HF equipment tenderly and you generally have good luck with the items... If you go at cranking down and banging these like it's an Ingersoll Rand Industrial Duty then you are going to screw up the HF product.You get what you pay for... treat em delicately.
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